Hasan A. Hilmy:
The ‘sweat and blood of Huvadhu’ people is not much different from the rest. Despite the slight difference in the dialect and linguist, the discipline and ethics remains very much the same as elsewhere in Maldives. The revolutions and twists of the average culture during 1950 to 1960 have made changes in the old but golden ways of living, yet some customs and tradition still lives on some places. The information in this article is inspired from the journals and writings of the people who experienced those sophisticated ‘sweat and blood’.
As said, the typical customs and traditions are very much the same, with modest changes from Atoll to Atoll and from Island to Island. And the very old customs might be insignificant to last and today’s generations. Those customs could be a laugh out story lines for most of them, regardless of that being their true reflection in time. These ways of thinking would last as long as time moves along with traditions from past to present to future known as ‘trending’. These are traceable for those who intend to know. And what the trends we follow today could be laugh out stories for generations to come. We never know. They might faint laughing over trends that we follow today. And this is a trend the world has followed since the beginning. It’s the evolution of living.
One example of a today’s top trend being made a joke of tomorrow could be the mobile phones. Imagine a paradigm picture where people would only use their brain to communicate, maybe high-tech telepathy? With no mobile phones around anymore? What would they possibly look back on us and say? Just a wild guess; “they morons, why would they carry that huge thing in their pocket while it could have been implanted in the brain?” Well, that is how the world evolves.
An example from the origin of where we are to talk about; ho would anyone could possibly imagine that they can actually fly from Kaadehdhoo on a bird and land in Male’ within less than 1 hours journey? Allah witness, there were residents in the very Kaadedhoo who lived and died, without even imagining this. And undeniable, they would have made a joke if we told them it is possible.
Don't deny the power and might of Allah. We are provided with facts and evidence to think and inspire ourselves and to reflect back to almighty Allah’s power and wisdom if Islam, when knowing about how we lived.
Building Mosques Then:
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| Hutukodey Misky - 1970's |
During olden days, mosques were built at the crossroads of inhabitable area and the jungle of that island. This is to find space for a grave yard within the compound of the mosque and keep the graveyard away from where people usually live. Folk beliefs say that the chances of encounter with “Spirits” are less when the graveyard is located away from where people live by.
Centuries ago, the foundation of the mosques built in Havaru Thinadhoo were built with lime stone clay (Uva) and erected with coral stone (hiriga) blocks. Some coral stones are intricately carved. Some walls are built with coral rubble (Thelhiga). 2x3 feet coral stone blocks are assembled as stones are all cut in a way to interlock (tongue and groove system). Lacquer finished timber columns (with coral stone stumps) and beams continue over the stones as the wall reached around 8 – 10 feet from the ground. The roof is covered with coconut thatch (Fangi). Inside, floor is softly filled with fine gravels and covered with weaved mat (Thun’du Kunaa).
During the roofing day, all the men over 15 years old who has not yet participated in cooking “Thalinga” (a traditional food item) has to cook “Thalinga” for the rest of the island. This is mandatory once in life, during those days in Huvadhu Atoll. Names of those who participate in this unifying event is written somewhere in the mosque ending with “Thalinga Khalaas” (Finished making ‘Thalinga’). Likewise, there were mosques finished with fine carpentry, lacquer, intricately carved coral stones, center dome (laage) and other artistic tricks. All these were precious treasures and a priceless piece of art.
During the kingdom of Dhevvadhoo Rasgefaanu (Sultan Muhammad), there was an astonishing piece of art built in Havaru Thiandhoo. A very crafty mosque built by his sister, Dhondhaleyka kanbuleyge, who went all the way from Male’ to Havaru Thinadhu to build that very mosque with the help of creative crafty men of traditional art in Maldives.
Here, one should know that the pioneers of “Hukuru Miskiy” (Friday Mosque) in Male’ are two gifted artists and architects from Huvadhu Atoll, who trained and instructed a team of crafty men, did the incredible work. The “Hutukodey Misky” (Hutukodey Mosque) was an outstanding work which shows the extraordinary flairs of those men back then.
After the genocide in 1962, during the repopulation of Havaru Thinadhoo on 1968, the marvelous structure with mind-blowing art and the sacred mosque lost its originality on renovation. Current structure which stands abandoned is completely different from the original. In fact, now stands a modern abandoned mosque with no remains of the old one.
Dhondhaleyka Kanbuleyge passed away (May Allah grant her Jannathul Firdhaus) while in Havaru Thinadhoo bringing up this remarkable structure. She was buried in the north grave compound of Masjidul Ghaazee Muhammad (The mosque name belongs to Bodu Thakurufan, Sultan Ghaazee Muhammad). There was small mausoleum (Ziyarai) built for royal graves in that area.
Friday Prayers Then:
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| Havaru Thinadhoo Hukuru Misky (Friday Mosque) - 1962 |
Men bath in pool (Vevu) and dress with sarong (Mundu) with their turban or white scarf (Foshaa) wrapped around their head or just leaned on their shoulder, and head out to Friday prayers every week. Some aristocratic people wear waistcloth (Feyli) and some uplifts the sarong to show the sleek beneath it.
Some men shave their beards and mustaches and clean their self at the pool (Vevu) near the mosque around 8am on Friday morning. They brush their teeth with fine grains of white sand collected from the shoreline. Some people smear their head and body with coconut oil, wrap a turban (Foshaa) around their waist while the other turban is gently leaned over the shoulder. The one who is late by 11:30am is considered one who didn’t catch the Friday prayer.
The Imam (The male prayer leader in a mosque) katheebu kileygefaan will take a bath in the pool (Vevu) at Hukuru Miskiy (Friday mosque) around 10:30am. He then goes home to get dressed and appear back in mosque to address the Friday Sermon and to perform the prayer. He waits at the veranda (Fenda) of the mosque till sermon time after praying the “Thahiyyathul Masjid” (Two rak’a prayer, performed for the mosque). He then presents the sermon in Arabic and perform the Friday prayer when its time. There was also a time when there is no set Imam for Friday prayers. Any one among the present Khathib (One who present the sermon) at the mosque would do the job then.
Luxury Houses Then:
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| A super-luxury house in Havaru Thiandhoo - 1962 |
People who own vessels, uninhabited islands and do trades are then the richest within the community. Their quarters are like a duplex-house (two separate residencies), known as ‘Maavaluge’ and ‘Beyruge’. Those are built by foundations of coral rubble (Thelhiga) and deadwood fences over it. Cross wall is built with dead Ochrosia oppositifolia wood (Dhun’buri Dhan’di) and coconut thatched covers. Window wall is made up of dead coconut wood (Ruh vakaru) and weaved coconut leaves (Viyefa hunna funn). ‘Maavaluge’ has 2 beds made of Ochrosia oppositifolia Sticks (Dhunburi dhan’di) and coir ropes (Roanu) and woodern bench/bed (Ashi) made of dead coconut wood (Ruh vakaru). Beyruge has a master bed made of Ochrosia oppositifolia Sticks (Dhunburi) and a wooden bench/bed (Ashi) and a wooden shelf/bed (Bodu Ashi). Incomparable, all the houses of rich and poor were roofed with weaved coconut leaves then (Viyefa hunna funn).
There is a difference in sleeping then. The wife or the husband of the child would sleep on the bed next to the main bed where the father and the mother sleep. Some houses do not have these arrangements tough. Children and their mates would sleep on the beds and wooden bench/beds (Ashi) arranged in different corners of the same hall. They flip the bench up and put it towards the wall after sleeping at some houses to make room in the hall during day time.
When a trading boat (Odi) arrives to the island, everyone would hurry to welcome them in warmth. Providing a pleasant hospitality to visitors was one of the thoughtful customs adopted by the people back then. People will be over cautious about keeping the visitors really happy and they will avoid any chance of disappointments. They are well hosted in the luxury houses in the island. If the men couldn’t build a passionate friendship with a girl who is single in that boat, is known to be teased by others. In Havaru Thinadhoo they say to such men that, “He couldn’t even go around ‘Hinaamaa gaa’ (An uninhabited island in Huvadhu Atoll)”. ‘Hinaamaa gaa’ is a small beautiful island with very little trees and almost like a sand bank; where sea birds use to congregate for their sunset melodies in groups.
Using Toilet Then:
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| The seaward of Havaru Thinadhoo - 1962 |
Back then, people go to seaward side (Futtaru) to defecate. Both men and women use the seaward side as their rest rooms. Two, three or more of the same sex sits close by near the wave breaking point, defecating. Except children, men don’t use to talk much during that time. But women are said to be chit-chatting, amused by each other’s jokes and laughing out loud. They even use to talk about their lovers secrets and conspire about people they hate too. Women use to go passing off together, at arrange times in groups. Usual time for them is both twilights of the day. And people who are timid of passing off in public, shut-in themselves somewhere isolated and pass-out in ground dug holes.
Some Customs of Women Then:
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Deligation of Huvadhu Atoll for the first Republic Day
of the Republic of Maldives pausing
with late president Mohamed Amin Didi. - 1953 |
There are pools (Vevu), separated for both men and women, in all the inhabitant islands of Maldives. There were some pools (Vevu) till 1960’s in some islands. The depth of a usual medium size pool (Vevu) in Havaru Thinadhoo is between knee to chest of an average man. Most of the pools (Vevu) are built with dead coconut wood bars kept one over the other in a square shape. Top is designed with coral rock (Hathaa gaa). This pool (Vevu) is not enclosed by any fence (Fulhah) or a wall. Bands of women bath in these pools (Vevu), topless in their original brand. They can’t be identified from a close range though.
Most of the Huvadhu women use to wash their hair with a form made of ash, lemon, egg and other ingredients most of the days. Such women are free from hair lice. But there are some women busy scratching their intense itching scalp with their fingers like a rake. Rich or poor, lice are found only on the lazy one’s hair. Because finding ash (Alhi) and water won’t be a difficulty even back then; this could prevent them from growing lice. Women like this sit near fences (Fulhah) and remove lice from each other’s head. They then crash the lice with their nails making a low pop-crack sound. If the sound was not heard, then they wouldn’t count it as a lice removed. Women with lice are known to be angry-birds, maybe because of their intense itchy scalp. If two of them get on a fight, then the people declares day-doomed. They just burst off with all the filth. In some islands, women use to get naked and dance singing songs to humiliate the offender. There were some incidents where they compare their genital parts and ask each who’s is the most beautiful in public. Other women use to support the fight, provide them with mockery lines, water and even betel leaf and areca nuts (Dhufun). These support women team-up within the fight and work together as a team. When the current standing woman is tired, she is substituted by another one from the team. Sometimes this goes without a leading speaker, but as a group. They mostly start with mocking song (Hajoo Raivaru). The crowd cheers and boos them in different tones and chants. There will be a fascinated crowd gathered enjoying the fight as long as it goes on.
Women with a thorough hygiene would have a mild soothing aroma on her hair. Those women wear traditional Maldivian dresses (Kasabu baadhala boavalhuge libaas) after bathing, and they will wear a waistcloth (Feyli) or a black skirt (Kan’diki) as a bottom.
When they move like a bud of aroma in the streets to collect water from the mosque well, they will wear different types of flowers on their hair. Most known types are; Roses (Finifenma), queen of the night, (Husnuheena maa), garland flower (Karanka maa), khus khus grass (Lansimoo), tangjong flower (Moonimaa) and Jasmines (Huvan’dhu maa, Chaandahnee maa, Iru dheymaa, Kudhi maa, Gukeynooran maa, Thandi rai maa). They use to place these flowers on the tight knot in their hair shined with coconut oil. Classy women wear a garland of tangjong flower (Moonimaa fathi). It has got a long lasting smell which stays for few days. These women will gently kill the hearts of innocent young men staring at them as they walk like the queens of the road during late afternoon. The garland of tanjong flower (Moonima fathi), is brought from Gn. Fuvahmulah. These women use to give away this garland to their lovers and fiancés as a symbol of love.
Young men and women sing ‘Raivaru’ (a type of Maldivian traditional singing) during the afternoon of Ramazan. They sometimes sing or write on coconut leaves their tempting poetry and spend their time in sweet laughter.
[These are few of the very old customs in Huvadhu Atoll taken from an article written by my Father, Abdulla Hilmy, who is a historian]